My First Backpacking Trip – Four Days in the Grand Canyon

Backpacking had been on my mind for years. I just never got the chance—until fall of 2023. And if you’re going to take your first steps into the backcountry, there may be no better place than the Grand Canyon.

I planned the trip with my cousin Soni and her husband Scott. They’ve hiked the canyon many times and helped guide me through the logistics, gear, and what to expect. If it’s your first time, go with people who’ve done it before. You’ll learn more in one trip with them than in weeks of Googling.

Our original plan was a rim-to-rim route. Start at the North Rim, detour to Ribbon Falls, then spend nights at Cottonwood Campground, Phantom Ranch, and Havasupai Gardens before hiking out Bright Angel Trail. We chose Thanksgiving weekend for cooler temps, which are much better for long miles with a pack.

Permits are released six months in advance, and we missed the June application window. Luckily, Soni and Scott managed to score a walk-in permit for just after Thanksgiving.

For the next few months, I dove into gear research and slowly gathered everything I needed to feel prepared. Here’s what I brought:

🏕️ Backpacking Gear List

🎒 Backpack + Sleep System

• Deuter Futura Air Trek 45 + 10 SL backpack
• Zenbivy Core Bed System
• Nemo Fillo camp pillow
• Featherstone Backbone tent
• Tent footprint
• Rumpl NanoLoft puffy blanket

🥾 Footwear + Clothing

• La Sportiva TX3 approach shoes
• Ankle gaiters
• Wool base layers
• Long sleeve hiking shirt
• Hiking pants
• Jacket
• Neck gaiter
• Extra underclothes
• Hat, gloves, handwarmers
• Wool socks (2+ pairs)
• Crampons
• Toe cushions

🍳 Cooking + Food

• Dehydrated meals
• lots of trail snacks
• electrolyte powders
• Steeped coffee and tea bags
• Camp stove
• Light backpacking mug
• Towel

💡 Essentials + Tools

• Headlamp
• Solar lantern
• Power bank
• First aid kit
• Hiking poles
• Water bottles ( I used two small and 1 large Nalgene bottles)
• Sawyer Squeeze water filter

Bonus PDF Download

Day One: South Kaibab to Cremation Flats

My sister Heather flew down from Minnesota to stay with our dogs while we were off-grid and also drive us up to the North Rim. We drove north to Marble Canyon and stayed in a hotel the night before our hike, but plans changed fast. A snowstorm had closed the road to the North Rim and there was no way around it.

We had to pivot and headed back toward the South Rim. Back at the South Rim, the Backcountry Office offered an alternative route that let us start that same day. Instead of rim-to-rim, we would hike down South Kaibab to a lesser-known primitive site called Cremation Flats.

The hike down was steep and crowded at first, but the traffic thinned past Ooh Aah Point. Once we reached Tip Off, we turned east. Finding the campsite was tricky since it wasn’t well marked, but we eventually spotted a rocky inlet that sheltered us from the wind. We made dinner, watched a gorgeous sunset and moonrise, then crawled into our tents as the temperature dropped into the high 20s. My Zenbivy system did its job. I stayed warm, even with the wind whipping at my tent.

Day Two: Into Phantom Ranch

We packed up and climbed back toward Tip Off before descending again, this time toward the river. This stretch was even steeper and my calves were on fire, but the views were unreal. Once the Colorado River came into view, we knew we were getting close. A tunnel led us to the Kaibab Suspension Bridge and across to Phantom Ranch.

By the time we reached camp, I was exhausted. Our site was stunning! Tall canyon walls, golden trees, and a babbling creek running beside us. We grabbed lemonades and beers from the canteen, filled our water, and explored a bit before the chill set in again. We spent some time admiring the full moon light that spilled into the canyon, so bright that it looked like the sun! Then we headed to our sleeping bags for warmth. I read a little and was asleep in no time thanks to the noise of the babbling creek.

Day Three: To Havasupai Gardens

This day would be our first real uphill. We followed the river for a while before climbing out of the lower canyon. The trail was challenging, but the scenery made every step worth it. The golden cottonwoods, the sheer cliff faces, the quiet.

We reached Havasupai Gardens early enough to enjoy the campground and relax. I layered up that night and added hand warmers to the bottom of my sleeping bag for extra heat. With my wool base layers, quilt, and Rumpl, I stayed cozy even as temps dropped to 25°F.

Day Four: Bright Angel Trail to the Rim

We woke well before sunrise, packed up in the dark, and hit the trail. This final stretch was steep, climbing four miles out of the canyon. Headphones in, trail mix within reach, and one foot in front of the other.

We watched the sun rise from the switchbacks and passed a mule train heading down. Before I knew it, we were standing back at the top. We grabbed a shower at the campground and then drove into town for hot pizza and a well-earned seat.

This was the kind of trip that shifts something inside of you. The kind that makes you want to do it again and again, even if your legs are still sore. I’m already dreaming of the next one.